Afro 30A ESC Flashing Red Light - Motor Won't Run

[Hands0n]

I wonder if anyone has any similar experience as me.

TBS Disco with EMax MT2213 935KV, Afro 30ESC.  A few initial flights of the day and no problem whatsoever.  Then randomly, plugging in the next LiPo results in one ESC flashing red.  Generally it is the same ESC/Motor pair.  If I leave it for about 20 minutes to "cool down" it will operate properly again.  I use "cool down" in quotes because neither the ESC or the motor are at all hot, barely warm even.

What does the red flashing light mean? There is scarcely any information out on the web and what is there [that I have found so far] is a repeat of the manual which is meaningless to solving the problem. 

NB: At no time does the motor cut out during flight. It is only apparent when swapping out the LiPo for another fully charged one. The ESC/Motor seems to fail initialisation.

[barneyg]

does it do the usual initialisation beep sequence ?  and if not the normal sequence what is the sequence ?

according to the manual the red light blinks when it may not be safe to do beeps.

Troubleshooting
To aid with troubleshooting, the AfroESC sports "ready" (green) and "error" (red) LEDs. During
power-up, the MOSFETs and drive circuitry are checked to ensure correct operation. During this
test, it may be unsafe to beep an error. If no beeps are heard from the motor, check to see if the
error LED is flashing, which should be visible through the heat-shrink. If so, count the number of
blinks between pauses and refer to the following list:
1 flash: Phase A stuck high
2 flashes: Phase B stuck high
4 flashes: Phase C stuck high
5 flashes: AIN0 (center neutral) stuck high
6 flashes: Phase A low-side drive fault
7 flashes: Phase B low-side drive fault
8 flashes: Phase C low-side drive fault
9 flashes: Phase A high-side drive fault
10 flashes: Phase B high-side drive fault
11 flashes: Phase C high-side drive fault
If no wiring fault or short is visible, one or more MOSFETs may have failed. The ESC must be
repaired or replaced. Otherwise, if the hardware check passes, the reason for reset is checked andindicated by beeping through the motor and LED flashing. There are four main beep pitches:
Beep 1: Lowest pitch (also red LED).
Beep 2: Medium-low pitch (also green LED).
Beep 3: Medium-high pitch (no LEDs)
Beep 4: Highest pitch (also red and green LEDs together).
Beeps 1, 2, and 3: Normal power-up with no special event detected. A longer beep 4 normally
follows to indicate that an arming signal was detected.
Beep 3, beep 1: Voltage brown-out detected (MCU voltage dropped below 4.0V). If this happens
during battery connection, it can be safely ignored. If this happens during use, the ESC may have
drawn more than the power source is able to provide, and the input voltage dropped below about
5V.
Beep 4: External reset. Should only occur after programming.
Repeating beeps 1, 1, 3, 3: Watchdog siren. Previous execution locked up or was not able to signal
proper status, so to prevent motor or other damage, the ESC reset itself. Check for moisture
problems or strong fields right next to the ESC. If nothing is found, the MCU may be faulty.
Once a valid input is connected and the ESC is sees an idle power request, a long beep 4 is played
and the green LED lit to indicate that the ESC is armed. This is required for all input sources, and
must be maintained at a rate of at least 20Hz, or power will be switched off. If the input signal
stops, the ESC will disarm after 2 seconds and play beeps 3 and 2 to indicate that the input
disappeared. The ESC will look again for valid input sources, or programming input via the Turnigy
USB linker.
If no input is detected for more than 8 seconds, a periodic beep 3 every 3 seconds will be emitted
(beacon mode). This may aid in the location of a crash, assuming the signal is lost.

as to what all that means I';m not exactly sure