DJI F550 build - let's go!

[Opto-Mystic]

[] 

DJI Opto ESC';s don';t need calibration. They just work. And as you';re using a Naza, you don';t need to worry about whether they will need to have their BEC insulated because ... They don';t have one.  That';s why the Naza is supplied with a PMU.

This maybe questionable. I have seen others say this too and in general that may be correct. However, my DJI Opto ESCs definitely need calibrating. I could not arm the motors properly - I may have been unlucky in getting uncalibrated gear but once calibrated, the motors armed exactly as they should.

[Richlizard]

Hey Ma, look at me!  ::)

Sorry for the over excitement, but yesterday I didn';t know how to solder! lol

[Opto-Mystic]

That looks very good Rich - Well done. I bet you';re chuffed to bits.

[guest325]

Hey Ma, look at me!  ::)

Sorry for the over excitement, but yesterday I didn';t know how to solder! lol

Be sure to insulate your soldered joints with something like hotmelt glue or epoxy - don';t want any magic smoke emissions do we?

[nub]

suppose it could be possible but highly unlikely, looking good though, no need to say sorry about the over excitement, think most of us on here have experienced it some way at some point quad related, the sado';s that';s we are

[guest325]

Better safe than sorry, magic smoke is bad news - nothing smells quite like it either, her indoors thought I';d been messing with TCP when one of my esc';s let rip!

[Richlizard]

Be sure to insulate your soldered joints with something like hotmelt glue or epoxy - don';t want any magic smoke emissions do we?

Yup, got it all ready but more to solder on to the power thingy yet I think... 

[sausageroll]

Im building another one at the moment too. Currently looks like this:

[Richlizard]

Well it was all going too well.

Got it to the point where it recognised my Futaba so I thought I would set it all up in the Naza software.

Downloaded latest versions and loaded the driver... but the machine will not appear within Naza software.

Anyone had this before?

Weirdly, although the usb is in the bottom of the LED unit, DJI';s stock response to this problem is...

"PMU should be connected to LED port of MC not EXP"

Totally baffling.

[Richlizard]

No idea what I did, but Naza now recognises it.

I will be back! ::)

[sausageroll]

Ive been using the BTU to connect it to my ipad or iphone to do settings changes now. I plug it into the computer to update the firmware, then there on in, you can do all the settings with the phone. Change the frame type, check motors, change gains, change controller or GPS positions, change failsafe, battery levels etc etc, you can do the lot from the phone. its much easier than having the 550 sitting on the floor squashed up against the front of the computer caus the cables only two feet long lol.

The bluetooth unit at a mere 20something quid is well worth having (although you will probably need the CAN hub too to be able to plug it in, or the iOSD mini which has a can repeater on it...

[sausageroll]

Richard, could you maybe take some close up photos of the solder joints that go to the main board...

I dont wanna bitch but id check those carefully, it looks like the heat might not have flowed onto the pad properly. How big is your iron? I dont wanna sit here and be a YouTube Comments section expert and preach, but id be pretty careful to check those. If the heats not penetrated they could be dry and that wont do the hex any good... Can you post some high res pics, I can check them for you.

Its hard to see, but in the photo i posted earlier of the 550 plate, i dunno if you can see or not, but the entire pad is soaked out with solder (which is a good indication the heat penetrated) and the cable is soldered on with lots of extra filler solder to cover the gaps. I find if you can no longer see the strands of the wire through the solder, then it shows the solder has soaked in and made a good contact. I can see a bit of the copper pcb pad around your solder joints, which is what makes me think theres not much solder on there and the heats not spread.

Also if your using lead free solder, then at your earliest connivence, get rid of it and get some leaded solder, its much easier to use. Also if you can, get a flux pen, thats very handy too.

I dont mean to moan, its only caus I care!!!


Pete.

[flybywire]

No idea what I did, but Naza now recognises it.

I will be back! ::)

It';s late & you';re tired, that';s why!

I have a policy now, if it';s getting on a bit, and it';s not making sense, i walk away, pick it up next day, when it will.

Looking good tho bruv.

[Opto-Mystic]

I couldn't agree with Pete more. He is absolutely spot on.

I urge you to be hyper critical of your soldering and if you have the slightest doubt, bite the bullet, take it apart and redo each joint until it looks good.

HORROR: Imagine what will happen if a critical connection gives way with your F550 at a 100 feet! Think of the heart break – and the cost!

I have put up a semi time lapse video of my Flame Wheel assembly here:
http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=5418.0

Watch the first two minutes or so and see the soldering technique that I have used for years.

I am using a grossly underpowered soldering iron – it is old and one I use for microelectronic stuff, not intended for larger wires such as the Flame Wheel. But I turned up the heat and it sufficed for the job.

First, I covered each solder pad with a good dose of quality solder. I use 'Multicor 60/40' solder that has 60% tin and 40% lead. It also has integral rosin flux.

Always take the solder directly to the joint or pad to be connected, NEVER carry solder on the iron to the joint/pad because the flux will burn off and cause a bad or poor connection.

It is good practice, if not essential, to put solder on all components to be joined before you connect them together.  Applying solder to a pad or wire prior to joining them is called 'tinning'. Properly tinned joints go together easier and the solder will flow smoothly. There will be less risk of 'dry joints' or joints that will fracture under vibration (A drone is a vibration generator)

[Richlizard]

Thanks Pete. I reallyhave no idea what solder I am using. A mate gave me a reel.

Going by another comment here,  have now plastered them in glue. :

I will take some shots and see if you can see through the mess.

Richard, could you maybe take some close up photos of the solder joints that go to the main board...

I dont wanna bitch but id check those carefully, it looks like the heat might not have flowed onto the pad properly. How big is your iron? I dont wanna sit here and be a YouTube Comments section expert and preach, but id be pretty careful to check those. If the heats not penetrated they could be dry and that wont do the hex any good... Can you post some high res pics, I can check them for you.

Its hard to see, but in the photo i posted earlier of the 550 plate, i dunno if you can see or not, but the entire pad is soaked out with solder (which is a good indication the heat penetrated) and the cable is soldered on with lots of extra filler solder to cover the gaps. I find if you can no longer see the strands of the wire through the solder, then it shows the solder has soaked in and made a good contact. I can see a bit of the copper pcb pad around your solder joints, which is what makes me think theres not much solder on there and the heats not spread.

Also if your using lead free solder, then at your earliest connivence, get rid of it and get some leaded solder, its much easier to use. Also if you can, get a flux pen, thats very handy too.

I dont mean to moan, its only caus I care!!!


Pete.

[Richlizard]

Good God, surely the little red strap isn';t the only thing holding this giant battery on?

What have I missed?

[Opto-Mystic]

Velcro strip on battery and across the frame? Do you have a strip about 4" x 1"? - didn';t it come with the kit?

[Richlizard]

Velcro strip on battery and across the frame? Do you have a strip about 4" x 1"? - didn';t it come with the kit?

I did yes, but thought it was for something else lol.

So went for straps. I may have overdone it...

[Richlizard]

Blimey O';Reilly!!

[Opto-Mystic]

This is my setup:

[Opto-Mystic]

I did yes, but thought it was for something else lol.

So went for straps. I may have overdone it...

IT WORKS!!!! Huge congratulations Rich. I know the satisfaction & pride you are feeling...Wow! 

[flybywire]

Looks pukka!  Can i make a suggestion Rich?  Maybe mount your zenmuse controller away from the arm?  In a crash, this is usually where the arms can break, it may damage the controller.  See if u can tuck it inside the body, as long as it';s horizontal or vertical, it';s fine.

Andy

[Richlizard]

Ok thanks Andy.

Not looked at the rest of the stuff yet, so didn';t know what other boxes go where.

Will bear it in mind, thx.

[flybywire]

Ok thanks Andy.

Not looked at the rest of the stuff yet, so didn';t know what other boxes go where.

Will bear it in mind, thx.

Doh!  It';s me being a clutz!  I was looking at donalds quad!  Ipad mini';s are cool, but difficult to make stuff out sometimes.  Well that';s my rxcuse 

[Richlizard]

Still relevant though. I have a Zenmuse to fit yet and all taken on board.

Meanwhile, does anyone have any experience in fitting one of these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231080137996?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have a bag of parts and some Chinese writing. I have ';A'; level Chinese, but it wasn';t this technical and braincells have died in the last twenty years!

Cheers

Doh!  It';s me being a clutz!  I was looking at donalds quad!  Ipad mini';s are cool, but difficult to make stuff out sometimes.  Well that';s my rxcuse 

[Richlizard]

Probably not the brightest idea to make my first real test flight with GPS in the dark, but my go-faster new lights helped.

Amazingly, all functions functioned as they should and it was incredibly stable. Even got around 13 minutes from it!!

Next step... gimbal time.

[flybywire]

Wow!  No mistaking that orientation.  I used my led';s for first time t';other day, very useful.

[simon]

Looking good loving the L.E.D';s. Can I ask where you got them from im after a set for mine as using it quite alot at dawn n dusk at the minute.

[Richlizard]

When you';re as blind as a bat like me you need them.

I got them off Ebay. They plug in to the balance cable though, so make sure you';re not gonna use that for anything else.

Search for "Dji F550 Flamewing Hexacopter Quadcopter Strobe Flashing Led Kit"

Looking good loving the L.E.D';s. Can I ask where you got them from im after a set for mine as using it quite alot at dawn n dusk at the minute.

[simon]

Cheers not sure how I';m gonna power them at the minute though as my balance plug is used for a voltage alarm.
May have to trawl the net to see if i can find a balance y lead to power both or if even this would work or effect the voltage alarm.
Do you know what voltage they run off?