CRIUS AIOP IO Addon Board.

[Carlthepilot]

PS If you have MP running/connected AND PROPS. OFF/NO FLIGHT BATERY why don';t you arm/disarm using MP if it';s only for buzzer testing?

[robshaw]

No I didnt.  I have now though.  Just recompiling and uploading as we speak.  :embarrassed

[robshaw]

Good idea.  I always forget I can do it through MP. 

[robshaw]

Ok. Got the radio calibration working.  Tried arming with radio and through MP and no joy with buzzer :-(

Back to drawing board.  On a plus the LED for ARM works a treat.

[Carlthepilot]

Nice! 2 outta 3 is pretty good.

Looks like my time between flights is booked for a while looking through 3.0.1 code...

Don';t know what others have tried for the buzzer but it might have something to do with trying to use AN5.

Did/could you try
#define PIEZO_PIN 32
and checking output with a multimeter to save soldering if its not going to work?

Edit: just tried #define PIEZO_PIN 32 on a V1 board. Didn';t work

[robshaw]

Hmmm.  Still got an issue or two.  Cant seem to get any feedback on channel 5 or 6 etc.  So no flight modes.  Have plugged a servo into the rx and it works fine. 

Im guessing its something ive done wrong with the compile again....

The things you do for a couple of LEDs and a buzzer eh!

doh!  Had all the AUX pins 1 -4 (12-15) configured as copter_LED pins.

Set like this now....


#define COPTER_LED_1 AN14       // Motor or Aux LED
#define COPTER_LED_2 AN15       // Motor LED
#define COPTER_LED_3 AN6      // Motor or GPS LED
#define COPTER_LED_4 AN7      // Motor LED
#define COPTER_LED_5 AN4     // Motor LED
#define COPTER_LED_6 AN3      // Motor LED
#define COPTER_LED_7 AN2      // Motor LED
#define COPTER_LED_8 AN1      // Motor LED

[Carlthepilot]

Whoa!! Nice catch! I wouldn';t have picked up on that til after a lot of .

And soo true. A lot of work for a "simple" flash and beep!

I';ve been trolling through the leds.pde of 2.8 and 3 side by side. Biggest difference other than terms is near the end. And wouldn';t ya know it, its in lines referring to the buzzer...

2.8

Code Select Expand

void piezo_on(){
digitalWrite(PIEZO_PIN,HIGH);

3.0

Code Select Expand

void piezo_on(){
    if (g.copter_leds_mode & COPTER_LEDS_BITMASK_BEEPER) {
        digitalWrite(PIEZO_PIN,HIGH);

All the entries near the end for the buzzer/piezo have an "if" line...
Looking at it, I don';t think it makes much of a difference. AFAICT its just making it LED mode dependent.

Wasn';t it anyway? That';s why we change Dec./Bin. in MP..

The 2 codes are quite different (as in whats where and terms) I have minimal to marginal coding experience and haven';t done or looked at any in a looog time.

Edit:Those "if" lines are there because of new "defines" further up. 

[robshaw]

Yes I noticed that buzzer difference as well.  What I have noticed is there is an R3 coming out which amongst other things sorts out an issue with LED Mode.  Perhaps this issue is to do with the buzzer.  The LED bit for arm and gps are working flawlessly and the same as APM. Makes me think that the buzzer should also work the same as APM, which them makes me think there';s an error in the code which is beyond my very limited coding knowledge too.

On another note I had the hex hovering in the house today on 3.0.1.  So it does work.  Just need to get it outside and give it a good blast. 

[cgcrute]

Your success has made me think about starting again. I';m going to start by getting the GPS and 3DR telemetry working.

What I did last time was:

Attach the 2 flat leads to the CRIUS and the IO board.
Attached a 5V feed from the BEC powering the main board.

So questions (no electronics knowledge I';m afraid!):

1) What did to do to get the GPS working? Dunno what I did wrong last time but that';s working now! 3DR next!
2) I powered mine from external 5v but didn';t solder SJ5 as that looked like it was only to power the 3 pin header. Do I need to do that? I think someone said theirs was powered from their Crius, was this via the 2 pin header or do the 2 ribbon connectors provide power?
3) I presume the pad to enable FrSkyt telemetry isn';t needed for 3DR? Works fine without the pad soldered!

I didn';t even try the LEDs as I realised the one I bought were 12v and powered them direct from the 5V BEC and they didn';t work but did direct from the battery. I';m going to order some more after payday. Does anyone have any advice on the pins to connect them to?

*Edit - Really should have had another play before posting 1/2 those questions. Next stop LEDs! All advice and guidance on THAT front much appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

[cgcrute]

Ok cool. Just to check but did you notice the labeling near the edge of the board is for the solder pads not the pins on the side?
So S2 is actually the top pin headers not bottom. Which is why I couldn';t get it going to start with too. .

I only just found this post tonight, it helped a lot and may have been the main reason I couldn';t get GPS working the 1st time round! 

Many thanks!

[cgcrute]

To use A1 A2 and A3 through the onboard ULN2003 the SJ1-3 pads must be soldered. Have you soldered any of these? If not only A4-A7 are going through and will give an output on the headers.

Because I will be using an Attopilot-style V/I sensor which needs to connect to A0, which goes straight to the header pins, and A1, I DID NOT solder SJ1 to connect A1 from the Crius to the darlington array but It goes straight to the header pins too.

Sorry if this is a daft question, as I said before I';m not great with electronics.

I was planning on adding a V/I sensor later if anyone sorts out the buzzer. Is it still possible to have GPS/Arm/Static LEDs (white ones on front 2 arms) using A2-A7? I suppose the white ones could just be wired to 5V (or I could use the 12v ones I';ve already got straight to the battery I guess but I';m a bit short of battery connections)?

[Carlthepilot]

Cgcrute, awesome you';re having more success.   

Been thinking I needed to do a bit of a summary for this thread...

I';ll draw a few basic diagrams to describe all what';s happening on this board and connections.

Watch this space

Edit:

Cgcrute: The simple answer to your question is yes.
Solder SJ2 (unless we can and you intend to use an airspeed sensor) and SJ3 to pass it to the ULN2003. Then you will have outputs on the 2-7 Header pins.
And I would just have the white LEDs connected to supply/battery, not through the board.


Making a SIMPLE 2D representation(picture) of a 3D thing(double layer PCB) is not as easy as it sounds!

If you look at your Add-on Board like this:



And consider the upper half of the board only then this is where things go:


Please note that this IS NOT the whole Add-on board. Only What happens with A0-A7.
To TRY and simplify I split it into top row and bottom row headers. I don';t know if this actually makes it easier to understand or not.....
You can see that A1 and A2 "branch off" before the SJs straight to the headers to allow sensor connection.

Initially I wanted to draw a diagram for the ENTIRE board with roughly the SAME LAYOUT AS THE BOARD but instead of making it easier the diagram gets very complicated and confusing almost immediately with black wire lines going everywhere!

[cgcrute]

Cgcrute, awesome you';re having more success.   

Been thinking I needed to do a bit of a summary for this thread...

I';ll draw a few basic diagrams to describe all what';s happening on this board and connections.

Watch this space

Edit:

Cgcrute: The simple answer to your question is yes.
Solder SJ2 (unless we can and you intend to use an airspeed sensor) and SJ3 to pass it to the ULN2003. Then you will have outputs on the 2-7 Header pins.
And I would just have the white LEDs connected to supply/battery, not through the board.


Making a SIMPLE 2D representation(picture) of a 3D thing(double layer PCB) is not as easy as it sounds!

If you look at your Add-on Board like this:



And consider the upper half of the board only then this is where things go:


Please note that this IS NOT the whole Add-on board. Only What happens with A0-A7.
To TRY and simplify I split it into top row and bottom row headers. I don';t know if this actually makes it easier to understand or not.....
You can see that A1 and A2 "branch off" before the SJs straight to the headers to allow sensor connection.

Initially I wanted to draw a diagram for the ENTIRE board with roughly the SAME LAYOUT AS THE BOARD but instead of making it easier the diagram gets very complicated and confusing almost immediately with black wire lines going everywhere!

Guess I better de-solder the 1st one then! ;-)

Thanks for taking the time to do that, it has helped me get my head round it a bit.

[cgcrute]

Is this the right voltage sensor?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRIUS-V-I-Sensor-Voltage-Current-Sensor-50V-90A-/261303304184?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item3cd6e3fff8

[Carlthepilot]

Yep, that looks exactly the same as what I have.

If you are using it to monitor via MP or OSD it';ll work fine and no other connections are necessary.

To use it with Frsky Tx/Rx telemetry you';ll need to connect the Frsky Rx';s telemetry port to the Crius either by:
Making a level converter as per guides and connect to the S1 tx (under where your GPS is connected)
or
solder SJ5 then do what I described in Reply 16:http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=4128.msg39504#msg39504 to hook the Rx telemetry port directly to the addon board.

[cgcrute]

New LED strip arrived from HobbyKing, supposed to be 4v~12.6v operating voltage but cannot get them working when directly attached to my UBEC.

Is it the LEDs or do UBECs not work with LEDs for some reason I cannot fathom?

[tony]

4 volt to 12.6 id plug them directly into a 3cell lipo see if they work

[cgcrute]

They work off the lipo just not of the ubec at 5v...

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[pheasant_plucker]

All of the LED strips I have looked at on hobbyking run at 12volt 400ma. I have never seen one run at such a low voltage!

Gerry

[cgcrute]

All of the LED strips I have looked at on hobbyking run at 12volt 400ma. I have never seen one run at such a low voltage!

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=23342

"Working Voltage: 4v~12.6v"

Granted this would appear to be a lie!

[teslahed]

New LED strip arrived from HobbyKing, supposed to be 4v~12.6v operating voltage but cannot get them working when directly attached to my UBEC.

Hobbyking have mis-informed you. LED tape that is supposed to run from about 12 volts will not light up at 5 volts. I would be surprised if you got much at less than 10 volts.

I have red, green and blue LED tape on my quadcopters. They all require slightly different voltages to work - blue requires the most. When my 3 cell lipo is almost dead the blue LEDs dim noticeably before the others and this acts as a useful additional low voltage warning alarm.

[cgcrute]

Thanks Teslahed, not worth sending it back given the price 

Anyone have a source for 5V LED strips, there must be some given the output of this board!!!!

[pheasant_plucker]

Lower voltage means higher current.  Bright and hyperbright leds pull quite a high current at their standard voltage range.
Better to run them at 12v. Any particular reason not to?

Gerry

[cgcrute]

Lower voltage means higher current.  Bright and hyperbright leds pull quite a high current at their standard voltage range.
Better to run them at 12v. Any particular reason not to?

The Crius AIOP IO add on board outputs 5v, seems daft to add another darlington to the one already there. There are others in this thread who have apparently added LEDs direct to this.

At least I THINK that';s how it works... can someone confirm I need 5V LEDs for output from the Darlington?

[pheasant_plucker]

If the Darlington goes high when on you can connect the led - to the Darlington output and the + to 12v. In effect switching in reverse then program accordingly.

Gerry

[cgcrute]

If the Darlington goes high when on you can connect the led - to the Darlington output and the + to 12v. In effect switching in reverse then program accordingly.

This could be where I';m going wrong, I assumed the darlington supplied the +, is it the ground it brings to the party? I';m a bit confused to be honest, read so much stuff it';s all got muddled up. But isn';t the ground on the darlington through the 5V UBEC? Will that not upset the UBEC?

I';m not daft but electronics has always given me headaches. Anyone in a position to explain in simple terms how to hook up the LEDs given my config would be a hero!!!

[pheasant_plucker]

The ground will be common throughout. I';m not saying it will work ok but you can try it.

Gerry

[cgcrute]

The ground will be common throughout. I';m not saying it will work ok but you can try it.

Just to re-iterate then before I blow something up...

Attach LED + to 3s Lipo. Attach Gnd to pin on IO board whose ground is through the 5V UBEC.

Is that right and is there a potential for disaster?

[pheasant_plucker]

Yes thats right. It "should" be ok but I can';t give you any guarantees.  The worst you could do is damage the darlington array.

Gerry

[cgcrute]

Thanks for taking the time to help me. I';ll give it a go later.

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