Binding R-XSR to Taranis X9D+ ACCST

[Squirrel Pasty]

Hello all,

I have tried to solve this on my own now for a couple of days but obviously with no luck.

I'm building my first quadcopter and it was going ok until I got to this stage.  I have a FrSky R-XSR receiver connected to a Holybro Kakute F7 AIO 1.5 FC which I'm trying to bind. 

SmartPort is connected to Tx4
SBUS is connected to Rx6
The 5V+ and Ground to the pads below.

In BF:-
I have Serial Rx ticked on UART6
SmartPort selected in UART4
Receiver Mode: Serial-based receiver
Serial Receiver Provider: SBUS

On the transmitter I started a new model and set internal RF to:
Mode: XJT D16
Channel range: CH1-8
Then I Select bind so I get the chirp. 

On the quad I hold down the bind button on the receiver and power it back on.  The Blue, Red and Green LEDs light up.  After about 5 seconds I release the bind button and press enter on the transmitter to stop the chirping.  The unlplug the quad and plug it back in.  The Blue LED is on and the Red LED is flashing.  But no Green LED at all.

This has left me stumped as all the various How To vids just repeat the about and it always works!

[ched]

OK first question what Firmware is on the R-XSR?
If you are using a newish radio with ACCST then you have to select ASSCT D16 in Mode on setup page of your radio.
One thing also is your radio EU-LBT or FCC? Which ever it is you need the RX to have same Firmware ie. FCC on both or EU-LBT on both.
The critical thing is you need radio and rx to have firmware that is compatible.

You don't need Betaflight setup at all to bind rx to tx. So don't worry about that bit for now, just make sure the rx is powered when you want to bind.

Hope that helps, if not let us know and we will try.

[Squirrel Pasty]

Hi,

The receiver was bought new from Flying Tech and it says it's LBT on the packet.  I haven't checked the firmware yet directly.  The radio says it's LBT on the back, faded sticker, but was bought secondhand.  I did try take a look at the firmware by following this How To and I can select all three!

As an aside I have a little Tinyhawk II and Freestyle that are both bound using D8 and bound fine and fly well.  Well they do I don't!!!

When you say I need to select "you have to select ACCST D16 in Mode on setup page" should I actually see "ACCST D16" rather than "XJT D16"?

I was so happy to get the VTx table done, I thought the binding bit would easier...

[ched]

Hi,

The receiver was bought new from Flying Tech and it says it's LBT on the packet.  I haven't checked the firmware yet directly.  The radio says it's LBT on the back, faded sticker, but was bought secondhand.  I did try take a look at the firmware by following this How To and I can select all three!

As an aside I have a little Tinyhawk II and Freestyle that are both bound using D8 and bound fine and fly well.  Well they do I don't!!!

When you say I need to select "you have to select ACCST D16 in Mode on setup page" should I actually see "ACCST D16" rather than "XJT D16"?

I was so happy to get the VTx table done, I thought the binding bit would easier...

Just a quick reply as I've had a few beers. I have a x-lite son not sure on x9. I will try and remember to look at the link you posted later today.
To be honest FrSky and firmware is a pain in the butt. Trying to work out versions etc.
I will reply better later.

[Squirrel Pasty]

Cheers 

[Bad Raven]

I think you are possibly confusing binding the receiver and getting it to talk to the flight controller. Two differing things!

For now, ignore the flight controller LEDs state other than if some are alight, it has power!

When you think you have powered up the receiver are there lights actually on its board alight?

Some FC will power the Rx when they have a USB connection, some need the main flight battery (PROPS OFF!!!!)

Read the Rx sheet that came with it regards binding and the indication you should have!

Get THAT right then come back................

With regard firmware.............

It may be that the Tx has FAA/Worldwide firmware, where D8 is inherently allowed, in which case a Euro/LBT firmware Rx will not work. It may be that the Tx has OpenTX and the right tick box settings there have enabled D8 mode.  Either way D8 mode would by default NOT be available on a Euro/LBT Transmitter.

[Squirrel Pasty]

Hi,

The LEDs I refered to are on the receiver not the flight controller.  The sheet that comes with the receiver says to go through the process I detailed in the original post but it leaves me where I started.

I have watched Curry Kittens' vid explaining how to get D8 mode on a EU LBT transmitter and remember I went through that process quite a few months ago to enable D8 mode so I could fly the Tinyhawk II. 

I will look at flashing the latest firmware onto the RF module of the transmitter and the receiver tonight and see how that goes and let you know what happens. Fingers crossed 

[ched]

My guess is it's a FW compatibility issue.
A few silly questions to start:
How new is your radio is is it ACCST or ACCESS or even ACCESS2?
Is it FCC or EU-LBT?
So that gives us a possible 6 combinations!!!
You need the FW on the RX to exactly match the radio both in FCC/EU and ACCST/ACCESS/ACCESS2!!!

Going back to your original post:
So you said your radio was ACCST and using a R-XSR rx.
So look here for ACCST R-XSR FW https://www.frsky-rc.com/r-xsr/
This should enable you to download fw for all ACCST versions.
So unzip it and as you are using SBus then select either the FCC or the LBT version (NOT FPort).
Then flash which ever version matches your radio.
Then follow the bind procedure in leaflet.
If you are not sure try LBT if that doesn't work try FCC.

If you are unsure which version FCC/LBT your radio is Curry Kitten has a video and an article on his blog with a lua script that allows you to switch between FCC and LBT. It does require a power cycle but it works great. The article is here: https://www.currykitten.co.uk/using-spi-receivers-with-an-lbt-eu-radio/

Hope that helps?

[Squirrel Pasty]

It's an ACCST, not sure of age as it was secondhand off eBay.  But it's the Plus not SE.  It's stickered on the rear as EU LBT.

I've downloaded the latest drivers for the RF module and the receiver, just need to get them loaded but keep getting chores to do!  Haha she doesn't realise\appreciate I have important work to do!

I shall take a look at the vid link cheers.

[Squirrel Pasty]

Success!

I flashed the RF module and then flashed the Rx both with the latest EU/LBT Firmware and attempted bind as before.  This time however it worked!!!!

Had to map the channels to correspond to the control inputs but that was fine.

Haha so glad I didn't have props on as a quick test with battery had the motors spin up uncontrolably!  But that's a problem for another day 

Back of Taranis with a modified lead I used flash the firmware.


Oscar Liang showing how the wire is connected and needs to be modied.


Thanks for the help.  I can sleep better now and progress a little further tomorrow 

[Squirrel Pasty]

Added the LUA script so I'll see how it works tomorrow. Cheers.

[ched]

NEVER have props on on the bench. It's not worth the risk. Bad Raven did mention it earlier 
Great you managed to bind it up.

Channel mapping is another complication. The features of OpenTX gives you great power but at the cost of complexity at times!!!! Painless360 has some great OpenTX tutorials.
You can remap via TX or on BetaFlight, not sure which is easier other than if you get TX setup correctly mapped then when you add a new model you can just copy the setup and then it will work with BetaFlight. If you map in BF then each new model will need the remap.

[Bad Raven]

Glad you are making progesss! 


On the first BF page is the quad on screen level? Set the accelerometers with it held perfectly level!  Use the set z option to make the on screen quad point away from you and check on screen quad matches real quads movements in yaw, roll, and pitch.

The commonest cause of motors firing off "on their own" uncommanded by throttle is (not in order):-

1. On the Config page, the stupidly worded "don't run motors when armed" not being set on.  This allows motors to run when disarmed if the quad is not level (or thinks its not level!)

2. Wrong settings for ESCs (top right in BF Config page). Depending on the ESC type, it might be needed to also go into BLHeli or BLHeli32 and set up some parameters there. That is where you can correct the direction of motors rather than rewire if they are wrong as default.

2. Throttle channel being wrong so TX appears to be commanding motors run to FC board. First set the channel order to match what your Tx is outputting. Least ways, they need to be the same !!
 

Does your Rx power up with the battery off and only USB connected?   If so leave the battery off and check BF REceiver page ensuring each channel (a) moves the right bar and (b) the throttle channel is low enough when stick down and high enough at full stick. Set min throttle in Config to suit.

On the page that shows the channels bottom right the little model quad should not be moving, and all the channels other than Throttle should be at 1500. If this is not so, adjust the Tx SUB TRIMS (NOT Trims) till they are.

Personally I avoid ALL the FC boards that do not power the Rx until the flight battery is connected, its a trap to get newbie's injured IMO!

[Squirrel Pasty]

Hello Guys,

Thanks for all this advice it is very much appreciated.  I've seen a few pics of "prop' strikes" and certainly don't fancy that.  I'm ugly enough as it is without losing anymore handsome good looks! so you can be sure that other than my tinyhawks props will stay off until needed when on the bench.

I shall take a look at those points Bad Raven and feedback on what I find.

Both the Tinyhawks and this quad have needed the mapping sorted out.  I think I'll try get that down in OpenTX so that I don't need to keep doing it each time.

I didn't realise the depth of this hobby when I first started.  But it is pretty satisfying overcoming each hurdle.

Cheers,
Simon
 

[Squirrel Pasty]

Hi,

I've done a little testing.

I've set the acceleromter while the quad was level.  I was off a little.  The channel mapping is correct.  Throttle on Tx relates to throttle on the quad and so on.

When I roll/pitch/yaw the motors behave normally, do not run away and can be increased proportionally.  Did notice they seem to brake rather than spin down, no props on them obviously but it does seem to be an active brake. 

The throttle however doesnt react normally.  On the Tx Mixes page the motors don't respond until the throttle is at -87.8 They will then speed up to way beyond minimum throttle.  If the throttle goes beyond -40.9 'ish the motors start to run away.  4 will max out and 3 and 2 will also try.  Motor 1 doesn't seem react much at all.  Reaction to the other channels is also lost. I have to disarm to stop the motors.  Then it's ck to "normal".

All channels are opperating from 987 midpoint 1500 and top end 2011.

The ESCs are supposed to be DSHOT1200 but only register as DSHOT600.  I shall download BlHeli and take a look at what that tells me.

The receiver powers on with just USB.

Doesn't seem to matter if Motor Stop is ON or OFF the motors will spins slowly when armed.

Cheers.

[ched]

Doesn't seem to matter if Motor Stop is ON or OFF the motors will spins slowly when armed.

Motors should spin when armed as then you know it's armed. What you don't want is motors stopped when armed as then you raise throttle and motors spin. The problem with that is there is no warning that it's in an armed state!!!
One thing as Bad Raven said set your end points to be 1000 and 2000 with 1500 as mid point using your TX SUB TRIMS.

You might find motors behave weird as they will be trying to respond to stick inputs. i.e. if you roll right the quad will try and spin motors to get a right roll. That's not happening as you have no props on so motors spin faster to try and achieve a right roll etc... DONT put props on to test this though!!!
Also if you have air mode enabled it can do weird things on bench.

Test motors with props off and battery connected via the motors tab in BF. That should show you if they are working correctly. If in doubt set DSHOT 600 as there is very very little difference that many people would notice, especially in your early stages.
I can't remember if all FC will support DSHOT 1200 or if all BF versions will use it. So it could be best to stick to DSHOT600 as that will be perfect.

[Bad Raven]

"The ESCs are supposed to be DSHOT1200 but only register as DSHOT600.  I shall download BlHeli and take a look at what that tells me."

If they are DShot 1200 capable they are almost certainly BLHeli32 not BLHeli, they are two separate programs.

[badger1]

Motors should spin when armed as then you know it's armed. What you don't want is motors stopped when armed as then you raise throttle and motors spin. The problem with that is there is no warning that it's in an armed state!!!

I turn on the the "don't spin motors when armed" option & turn off "permanently enable air mode".  I then have a mode switch STAB->ACRO->ACRO/AIR - this is so I can land without AIR mode on, & so that if I have to land in long grass I can kill the props with the throttle so they're not thrashing around in the grass until I can get to the disarm switch.

on my first quad I put a LED strip with colour mapped to the arm state, but I haven't bothered since.  YMMV

I do keep meaning to set up two-stage arming but never quite get around to it though ...

[Bad Raven]

For 65mm to 90 mm lightweight ducted I have air mode on and rely on disarm. This as I "race" in Angle (or an agressive version of it!!) as do most top Tiny Whoop racers.

For bare prop up to 150ish I have Angle with no air mode and Horizon and Acro with air mode on, and take off and land in Angle with no Air.

For 3" upwards I have a three way for mode and air mode on a separate switch.

I have 6 or 8 way rear LEDS, on either the centre two are set to show arm state, on an eight way  outer two are battery state, and when its fully OK and armed the complete stack are my preferred colour of Orange. Green centre means safe.

Sorry, but I disagree that motors must be physically spinning whenever armed, that's not what you ever set on fixed wing or helicopter electric, and I don't see its required for safe operation of quads either.

I don't use two stage arming, but can see the point, however if I have the Tx in my hand but not flying I curl my thumb over the throttle stick shaft to hold it at zero, and of course Throttle Hold or Disarm is set by switch.

[Squirrel Pasty]

The story so far...

I have set the sub trims to 1010 1500 1990 on all channels.
Made sure the motors are all spreading in the correct direction.
Motor stop enabled
Airmode off
Acro mode

On the bench it seems to react more as expected.  I've set my little TinyHawk II to the same settings and checked how that reacts and it is basically the same.  The motors are not fully in sync but the it's on a bench with no props so any auto adjustments it trys to make don't happen.  It's now spinning off on one motor or one motor just doing nothing now.

I think it might be time for a test flight with props tomorrow. 

Then I can start adding the GPS or playing with the box of bits quad I bought from eBay the other day!!! think I'm getting an adiction...

I understand what people are saying about having props spinning when armed.  Personally coming from professional kitchens I assume everything that is metal and around me is hot.  Very hot. Large rolling racks from an oven at 275Deg hot.  I find myself automatically tapping trays/pans in the walk-in fridges to check temps before I grab them sometimes.  So it follows that for this sport I just assume, unless I know, I assume it's live and dangerous. 

Cheers for help so far.  I'll feedback on progress and I'm sure there'll be many more questions!

[ched]

Not sure I should say this as it's dangerous.
Don't blame me if you slice your self or damage your house, the dog, cat etc..

I have in the past put props on and held quad in a position that gives a very good grip but my fingers are still out of the way. Then arm quad with tx and check I can feel quad try and level if I move it. Then move pitch and see if I can feel the quad moving the way I expect, then roll then yaw etc.

If you contemplate doing the above be VERY VERY VERY careful.

I am not responsible for any damage caused!!!

[Squirrel Pasty]

I was more thinking of the field near the house and walking well away then hitting the arm switch...

Certainly not in the house or holding it.  10" props don't give much room to hold onto for a start

[badger1]

If you contemplate doing the above be VERY VERY VERY careful.

I am not responsible for any damage caused!!!

what happened to your "PROPS OFF!" catchphrase ched?   

[badger1]

Certainly not in the house or holding it.  10" props don't give much room to hold onto for a start

what are you building that has 10" props?

[ched]

what happened to your "PROPS OFF!" catchphrase ched? 

Always safer to have props off but I have been known to take a calculated risk AFTER all other checks have been carried out.
It probably goes back to the days where you had to setup PIDs to be able to fly and you had to be capable of flying to adjust PIDs! Vicious circle! I remember having a quad indoors, props on, strung up between 2 chairs. Arm, bit, of throttle then try little pitch and then back. Then adjust PIDs to stop oscillation. Repeat, if worse lower PIDs if better raise a little and so on on both pitch and roll axis.
Then try and have my very first flight - not of the new quad but my very first attempt to fly a quad.....

Now BF is so good any quad will fly very very well on stock PIDs.

Props OFF always so much safer and best way to check basics.
Stay safe 

[Squirrel Pasty]

Yesterday when I plugged in my TinyHawk to compare settings as soon as I armed it it just flew in the air with the USB cable attached.  Luckily it's tiny and has shielded props.  Dread to think how it would be with a 5"quad...

Too late for a test flight today. Hopefully tomorrow.

[Squirrel Pasty]

Managed an initial test flight today.  Well to be more precise some simple hovering.  The craft seemed quite unstable and it looked as though the front motors span up more than the rear but that could have been more to do with the different coloured props as it didn't pitch up.

I didn't have a full battery so only managed a couple of minutes.  I'll try get a clip for you guys to see of the next attempt.

"what are you building that has 10" props?"
I've taken the props and motors off a XK Detect X380 that I got off GumTree.  It also has some other bits I've kept that I'll try use on a craft I'm making from random spares.