Switching on/off orientation LED's

[nate80]

I';m FINALLY picking up the build of my F550 from where I left off almost a year ago. It';s a bit more than just a base build as I';m adding retractable legs, a Tarot T-2D gimbal with Action Cam (that I intend to figure out how to use as an fpv cam as well as for recording - like a Phantom, iOSD module, a Bluetooth Control Unit and 6 x 1W orientation LED lights.

I bought a Taranis X9D Plus and an Frsky X8R receiver to use with this setup.  I';d like to be able to switch the orientation LED';s on and off using a flick switch on the Taranis.  Is there a way to wire up the orientation LED';s so that I can switch them on/off without having to install a stand-alone receiver controlled switch?  Like, can I have the Naza-M V2 or the X8R control the switching on/off of the LED';s?  Sorry if it seems a daft question but this is my first full build and some stuff is still alien to me.

[nate80]

I don';t know how all you self-builders do it!     I';ve spent days (literally) watching video';s, reading forum posts, reading relevant chapters of diy build books and looking up product reviews related to the products I';m trying to compile, but I';m still pretty lost.  I think it';s the expectations I have and how my brain works (ocd/perfectionist/weird  ).    I mean, I always need to understand the absolute basics, then I can generally figure everything else out pretty quickly.  But there';s just so much learn and there';s such a shortage of instructions.  Like, each of the products I have come with a badly written single A5 flyer that doesn';t explain anything.  I';m not gonna lie, I';m finding self building with individually sourced components challenging.

So I think I';ve come to the conclusion that there';s no way of wiring 6 x 1W LED';s up to be switched on and off via the Taranis without installing a Receiver Controlled Switch.  I don';t yet fully understand exactly what the abilities and limitations of flight controllers and receivers are.

I mean, like, how power is taken and output by the devices.  I initially assumed that an RX, for example, would be fed power through a single input (similar to a 4 plug extension lead) and that the power was then distributed to the 3 pin channels for any and all external devices to use.  But as I';ve now seen video';s of RX';s being powering up via their Sbus input, then via the pins of channel 1, then the channel 3 pins, I guess it means that the RX can take power from any + pin that is fed the right voltage.  May seem really simple to the initiated but I had no idea as nowhere seems to tell you this most basic of stuff!

When it comes to flight controllers I get that they deal with the calculations needed to keep a multi rotor in the air and send the necessary signals to the esc';s that control the motors.  But how do they manage power?  They obviously take power from the LiPo via the ESC';s, so can you power a Tarot T-2D gimbal off the flight controller?  Or is that not sensible even if it was possible?  And if so, how do you power a gimbal and a Go Pro from the multi rotors LiPo battery?

I came across a post suggesting UBEC';s were the answer.  No specifics, just that UBEC';s were the answer.  So I googled UBECs and read that BEC';s burned out when connected to anything greater than a 3S.  Then another guide said BEC';s were good for 2S-4S.  Not sure which is true.  But UBEC';s use switchable current and provide a more efficient power source without overheating, so I guess that makes them lots better.  In which case why would anyone use a BEC?!      

Definitely finding it a bit of a struggle.   .  I think I';m trying to run before I can walk, but I';ve started it now so I';m determined to finish, and each step in the right direction is very rewarding.

[atomiclama]

I mean, like, how power is taken and output by the devices.  I initially assumed that an RX, for example, would be fed power through a single input (similar to a 4 plug extension lead) and that the power was then distributed to the 3 pin channels for any and all external devices to use.  But as I';ve now seen video';s of RX';s being powering up via their Sbus input, then via the pins of channel 1, then the channel 3 pins, I guess it means that the RX can take power from any + pin that is fed the right voltage.  May seem really simple to the initiated but I had no idea as nowhere seems to tell you this most basic of stuff!

The 5V pins on the RX are generally all commoned together, so you can power them from any input.

But how do they manage power?  They obviously take power from the LiPo via the ESC';s, so can you power a Tarot T-2D gimbal off the flight controller?  Or is that not sensible even if it was possible?  And if so, how do you power a gimbal and a Go Pro from the multi rotors LiPo battery?

Soz I don';t do long long detailed posts, sure someone else will 

Not obvious and not consistent across FCs
Some ESC supply 5V (non-opto) others don';t (opto) although opto has nothing to do with opto-isolators 

I would not power anything but the RX from the FC

Use a dedicated UBEC (horrible acronym)  for the rest.

BEC is just a linear regulator and will dissipate the energy as heat, they will get hot, don';t use. Used as they are cheap and easy before UBEC came along.

UBEC is a switched mode PSU. >80% efficient use one of these to power your stuff.

[nate80]

Haha, no worries - Thanks for the reply, and sorry for the essay!        I think deep and can get carried away.

Ok, cool.  I think I get it re. powering items.

The tarot t-2D gimbal requires DC 7.4V ~ 14.8V (recommended 12V, 3S LiPo) and has a working current: 200mA-500mA, so I could run it directly off a LiPo but I can also power it off a 12V 3A/5A UBEC?

Can you power multiple things off a single UBEC safely?  I';ve got the Tarot T-2D Gimbal (7.4~14.8V 0.5A), a Xiaomi Yi action cam (has a 1010mAh battery, so I';m guessing 5V 1A), and 6 x orientation LED';s (15.7V max and 2.2A).  Could I run all that off a single 12V 5A UBEC?  I don';t mind if the LED';s are slightly dimmer because they';re only powered at 12V.

[ched]

The tarot t-2D gimbal requires DC 7.4V ~ 14.8V (recommended 12V, 3S LiPo) and has a working current: 200mA-500mA, so I could run it directly off a LiPo but I can also power it off a 12V 3A/5A UBEC?

Can you power multiple things off a single UBEC safely?  I';ve got the Tarot T-2D Gimbal (7.4~14.8V 0.5A), a Xiaomi Yi action cam (has a 1010mAh battery, so I';m guessing 5V 1A), and 6 x orientation LED';s (15.7V max and 2.2A).  Could I run all that off a single 12V 5A UBEC?  I don';t mind if the LED';s are slightly dimmer because they';re only powered at 12V.

I believe the Xiaomi Yi will be destroyed at anything above 5v!!! So needs a 5v ubec.
The Gimbal will be fine on 5A 12v ubec as will the LEDs. LED';s might be a bit dimmer as spec says MAX 15.7v.

As for the control of the LEDs. That is an interesting one. I have 4 strips of LEDs, one per side, different colour each side (Front White, Right gReen, Left. Left bLue, and read Red). I can turn them on or off just by plugging them in on the ground. But I plan to fit a switch to the LEDs and my Gimbal. So that I can switch the LEDs on or off when on ground. Plus the gimbal takes 30 sec to initialise when lipo connected and as I use a SJ4000 I have to select video out each time it';s powered on.  So have to wait to select video out before powering on gimbal.

I also use a Naza and remote controlling LED';s does seem overly easy. Seems like easiest way it rx activated switch module. Something like this https://goo.gl/naFwu4 at about £5 for 20A switch.

[nate80]

I believe the Xiaomi Yi will be destroyed at anything above 5v!!! So needs a 5v ubec.
The Gimbal will be fine on 5A 12v ubec as will the LEDs. LED';s might be a bit dimmer as spec says MAX 15.7v.

As for the control of the LEDs. That is an interesting one. I have 4 strips of LEDs, one per side, different colour each side (Front White, Right gReen, Left. Left bLue, and read Red). I can turn them on or off just by plugging them in on the ground. But I plan to fit a switch to the LEDs and my Gimbal. So that I can switch the LEDs on or off when on ground. Plus the gimbal takes 30 sec to initialise when lipo connected and as I use a SJ4000 I have to select video out each time it';s powered on.  So have to wait to select video out before powering on gimbal.

I also use a Naza and remote controlling LED';s does seem overly easy. Seems like easiest way it rx activated switch module. Something like this https://goo.gl/naFwu4 at about £5 for 20A switch.

Cheers.  Yeah, I';d guess 5v is the max Xiaomi Yi can handle.  The battery is 4.2v, but it charges at up to 5v from some USB sources so I guess I';ll have to install 2 UBEC';s.  A 5V for the Xiaomi Yi and a 12V for everything else.

Thanks for your link to that switch.  Looks good, especially being 20A or 30A.     I';ve got a 10A Turnigy receiver controlled switch kicking about that should do the job, so I';ll use that on the LED setup.  Shame about the SJ4000 video out issue and gimbal delay.  I bet the footage looks great though.

[atomiclama]

Just another thing to note. UBEC/SMPS don';t behave nicely when the input voltage gets close to the controlled output voltage, like you get when you try to run a 12V one from 3S. they can glitch or shutdown altogether. Linear regulators on the other hand will follow the input - 0.5V ish.

[nate80]

Ok, thanks.  I';m going to be running 4S lipos, but I';ll keep that in mind.