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3d - Printworx

CW / CCW motors

Started by insx, Friday,October 14, 2016, 13:11:38

Previous topic - Next topic

insx

If a motor is marked as CW, does that mean that it is meant to spin clockwise, or does it mean that the nut screws on CW, or what? I';ve just realised that I don';t understand this and I might have been doing it wrong. I';ve got a 50/50 chance, I suppose.

insx

Lunch time musings, I could answer this myself if I had some in front of me.

Gandhi

depends. Some manufacturers mark the thread direction, some mark the intended direction of rotation.

Personally I think they should be banned. Most pointless invention ever. Use a nyloc on a normal motor and forget about it.

I suspect that they were originally a marketing ploy to sell more motors as they were often only sold in pairs, so if you bent one, you had to buy two.

nate80

#3
Personally, I quite like the ease of use of self tightening props on certain motors, which is only a possibility due to the existence of dual rotationally marked motors.

If cost is of primary concern then buying standard CW motors and using Nyloc nuts is a good solution.  Just remember to replace the lock nuts often enough that they don';t unlock mid fight and cause your quad to come crashing out the sky.

As far as I';m aware the only real difference between CW and CCW motors is the thread direction.

A motor is just a motor and can rotate in either direction depending on the electrical signal it';s being sent.  I think it';s all down to the magnets being electronically attracted/repelled by the coil at a certain rhythm which forces the bell housing (for example) to rotate in a given direction and at a given speed.

I';ve found that a motor marked CCW generally rotates in a CCW direction, so the prop/prop nut will screw on in a clockwise direction.  A CW motor is obviously the exact opposite.   Though as Gandhi says some manufacturers refer to their motors by outlining the thread direction instead.  Handy.

Revs

Quote from: insx on Friday,October 14, 2016, 13:11:38
If a motor is marked as CW, does that mean that it is meant to spin clockwise, or does it mean that the nut screws on CW, or what? I';ve just realised that I don';t understand this and I might have been doing it wrong. I';ve got a 50/50 chance, I suppose.

As a rule CW means a CW thread, as in right hand, so the motor spins CCW. TBH I';ve used just CW motors on my last 2 builds without issue.

kilby

It';s better to simply get regular rotation motors as you can then buy bags of flanged Nyloks for next to no cost, rather than chasing around after the reverse threaded things
Not much kit, but what I have I like
Armattan Tilt 2, Morphite 180, Quark 150, Decapitated NanoQX
Taranis+

nate80

Quote from: kilby on Friday,October 14, 2016, 14:36:52
It';s better to simply get regular rotation motors as you can then buy bags of flanged Nyloks for next to no cost, rather than chasing around after the reverse threaded things

It';s definitely simpler sticking with standard motors and CW nyloc nuts for when you run out of spares.  When I first lost a CCW nut I couldn';t find spares in any UK hight street ironmongers etc. in order to keep flying that day.  So I bought a single bag of 4 or 5 from a UK model shop to get me back in the air quickly, and then a large bag of CCW nuts for a few quid off banggood or somewhere like that.  Problem solved.   ;D

insx

Thanks all. I had fitted all my motors properly but it sounds like it wouldn';t matter anyway with my Racerstar motors that came with nyloc nuts.

Eachine Racer 250 now sold, by the way.

H_Simpson

Nyllok';s have there uses, but can be a bitch to undo on some motors.  I can';t see any issues with handed motors, much harder to get the wrong way round, plus most of the current race motors of any merit are handed.

LuMan

I seem to be in the minority here...  :laugh:

For the builds I';ve done... Which is 2 and a half, so far.. I have had CW and CCW threads on the motors. So I put a CW prop on the CCW motor [thread], effectively ';tightening'; the prop nut as the motor spins.

But, in effect, it doesn';t actually tighten the nut. It just reduces the chance of it loosening.

TBH, there are a number of ways that a prop can be secured, and the torque pushed back by the prop, due to load, shouldn';t actually overcome the capabilities of the nut itself.

So, don';t panic  :frantic:  :laugh:
Potensic F181DH  -  Ghost 250 (blue)  -  Cheerson CX-10/A  -  Syma X11C  -  FQ777-FQ17W  -  Eachine E57  -  BetaFPV 65S  -  Robocat 280 (in build)  -  Ghost 250 LED (in build) - And lots of broken stuff!

apollo7

On self builds i prefer nyloc nuts, the P3 has self tightening and on the tricopter in build it will use T style props............still thinking about another build, but time will tell
Volantex Ranger 1600/2000, Ranger 1200 G2, Phoenix S 1600 AR900 Miniskyhunter, ZOHD Dart 635 and a few 680 batwings plus old faithful C1 chaser and a lot of eagletree guardians

Jazzz

If your ordering emax red base Ccw 2205 2600 you get two or three spaires with each motor I doubt will need all those
But nice to have spaires I gess