New build recommendations

[Elmattbo]

So I';m considering another build. Don';t want to invest in a load of new batteries so as much as I like the idea of a 150, I';m thinking of a 220 X build. Any recommendations? Thought maybe the charpu qav X or something like that.

In fact, what would be your ideal build at the moment and why? Frame/board/esc/motor combinations please!

[Saleem]

But once you got batteries for say a 150,you got batteries then for a 120,even maybe smaller.

I have a 122 atom up and running and flying,i got a 250 up and running and flying,i have a 150 on the go but just waiting on a step down regulator to continue otherwise i got everything to finish it off.ontop that i got a realacc qav214 frame due and thought if i got bored of the H configuration or wanted to try an X frame i can just strip the 250 and into the 210 X frame it gos.

So why not go with a 210ish size?

That way you should be able to get the 250 size motors (hopefully) on the frame.

I just have a light flyer so i can pop out front where i live and hopefully not offend my neighbours.a park flyer in the 250,so thought i would try a 150 to see how small i would idealy go for park flying,the 122 atom is not tealy a park flyer,it requires a lot of obstacles spread about for my way of flying so footy pitchs are not ideal,why i am trying a 150 to see if thats a better size for park and maybe use it out front also.

I bought the realacc 214 just as a standby frame fir the 250 in case it took a big hit too many,not realy to build another quad as my quad count when they are all flying will be 3,would rather not have 4.

Incidently i will be upgrading all the batteries from 3s to 4s as they are tired or the small quads require a bit more as they draw a lot from the current ones fast.

My recommendation would be to go smaller but something that takes what you have in motors,210!also that suits where you fly and how you fly.

I havnt flown an Xframe so try a frame config you never used before to see whatvthey fly like?

[Cheredanine]

Hands down best x fram3 (or even best frame) I have is the scx200 from armattan.
You can get the scx200 cobalt (as I have - see 250 builds) or redback or slightly cheaper, the basic scx200 v2.1 although that takes a while since it is cut to order.

Light, agile, comparable to the shrike in that respect, but without the problems the shrike has - FC mounted on frame standoffs and better cam mount.

1000000% if you are gonna buy a frame, particularly an x frame to run 5 inch props, get an SCX

[Elmattbo]

Thanks for the info chaps, I';ll look into it! Armattan looks good.


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[Elmattbo]

Thought I';d revive this thread as I still haven';t got around to buying it! So, 5 inch prop motor frame combos will please chaps!!


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[Cheredanine]

Ok mate so I would add tsx200 to my earlier recommendation for frame, the tsx is a bit more minimal but a little lighter, I rate both frames over shrike and qavx for a start and they are both good frames

Motors- 2206 2300kv for preference, no point in getting higher kv, you don';t use it, any of: brother hobby tornado t2, brother hobby returner v4, armattan oomph are brilliant

If you run lighter props or want a little less agility then cobra champion 2205 2300kv

Escs - there is no perceptible difference in flight from any blheli_s escs. Stay away from littlebee 20a - they have a design flaw that produces pyrotechnics, I would suggest spedix as they are the best price, but you are probably gonna want to run dshot. With a standard blheli_s esc this needs you to remove a capacitor from the esc, it isn';t difficult, I have done 27 escs so far, but if you are uncomfortable doing it armattan, dys and tmotors at least are now producing escs that already have the capacitor removed

Flight controller - betaflight f3 is starting to hit the market, that does everything, but not available in the uk yet.
I would probably recomend either the new SSD from rotorgeeks - very good price f3 with all the whistles and bells without aio or the bluejay f4 which can be got from electric wingman

Props:for agility you can';t beat the original hq5x4x3 but they have stopped manufacturing them now and are selling remaining stock, you can get from Electricwingman or makeitbuildit but they do break easy, given the stopped manufacturing, that is a dead end
I like the hq s tips triblades and also love racekraft 5051s but to be fair the latter grew on me over time rather than out the box.
Not all frames will fit the racekraft either, the tsx won';t, nor will my dronewolf,
Dal cyclones are supposed to be nice too but haven';t got round to trying them

[Doug]

Just to add to what has been said about Armattan frames majority of them come with a lifetime warranty on the major carbon parts.

And they will not quibble you mail them a pic of the damage and they will replace the part

Doug

[Elmattbo]

Excellent info chaps I';ll look into it. I';ve done the dshot cap removal before so I';m happy with that on a set of dys 30A and they';re running quite well on dshot300 so I';ll probably stick with them. Good info on the motors and frames, I';ll do some research...
I';ve tried a few sets of dal cyclones 5045 and I';ve been happy with them. The pitch means you get a little less rpm at top end compared to 5040 but they run quietly and smoothly.


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[Cheredanine]

Excellent info chaps I';ll look into it. I';ve done the dshot cap removal before so I';m happy with that on a set of dys 30A and they';re running quite well on dshot300 so I';ll probably stick with them. Good info on the motors and frames, I';ll do some research...
I';ve tried a few sets of dal cyclones 5045 and I';ve been happy with them. The pitch means you get a little less rpm at top end compared to 5040 but they run quietly and smoothly.


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Actually mate, if the motor has enough torque you should be hitting about the same rpm, that is why I suggested 2205 for Light props and those 2206 for general

[Elmattbo]

Fair enough. I was going off my experience with emax red bottoms, but they are only 2205 I suppose.


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[Elmattbo]

Actually mate, if the motor has enough torque you should be hitting about the same rpm, that is why I suggested 2205 for Light props and those 2206 for general

By the way, thanks again for taking the time to reply. Your enthusiasm for the hobby and helping us luddites is appreciated!


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[Cheredanine]

No worries mate, you are more than welcome

[Elmattbo]

No worries mate, you are more than welcome

One more thing... esc';s - 20A or 30A? I usually go for 30A headroom but what';s the convention?


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[Cheredanine]

Depends on the motor/prop/cell count mate, those criteria tell you how many amps you will draw

Miniquad test bench is very good for that.  On the bench a combo will draw 20-30% more than it will in flight so you have some head room, also check the burst for escs, for blheli_s burst is usually 5amps more than continuous and since we don';t fly for 20 seconds at full throttle because we don';t want to be in low orbit, as long as the bench test or thrust figures don';t exceed burst you are usually good

I have built enfollowing combos in December without any issue (4s and aggressive triblades)
BrotherHobby  tornado t2 2206 2300kv - sunrise cicada 30a - I did this as a demo for reseller, if I was doing it for myself I would old have used spedix 25a and lived with the risk

BrotherHobby returner v4 2206 2300kv - tbs bulletproof v2 25a

Armattan oomph 2206 2300kv -tbs bulletproof v2 25a

Those are all hot motors and 25a run them fine

I wouldn';t do 20a

On 2206 2500kv and 2206 2600kv I run 30a